A 2014 copy of the Wine Guide, by Food & Wine Magazine, fails to mention Hungary among its ‘Old’ or ‘New’ wine producing countries. And yet wine has been made there for 1000 years, with volcanic soils, unique varietals and a commitment to craftsmanship — resulting in sublime wines. Perhaps that’s one reason why Hungarian wine producers, in New York this week for a tasting, see themselves as ‘back with vengeance’.
Hungary was the first country in the world declared to be GMO-free. Many of the country’s wine producers seem committed to organic grape-growing and wine-making.
“Best grapes from my garden, native yeast fermentation, moved by gravity, minimal sulphur, unfiltered, unfined.” Franz R. Weninger
Our favorites from the tasting were: Weninger Kekfrankos Steiner 2009, Sauska Kekfrankos 2011, Disznoko Tokaj Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2007, Maurus Ezerjo 2012, Merfelsz Nero Rose 2013.
Photographs: Stephen Wise